To make it easier for the buyers to make their choice, Pentax clearly divided its digital cameras for beginners who just want a camera to capture regular events, and those who is choosing a Pentax digital camera for professional needs.

The Pentax Optio line of Pentax digital cameras are designed specifically for people who are new to using digital cameras. An example of a Pentax digital camera in the Optio line is the Optio M20. This camera has an LCD monitor of 2.5 inches, uses only two AA batteries, and has a 3X zoom capability and 7.0 megapixels.

The Optio M20 also has a power system that is so efficient that with only two AA batteries, the camera is capable of storing 900 pictures (with the applicable memory card). The camera is also easily operated to capture motion and play it back with QuickTime.

Professional photographers or well-versed amateurs would appreciate the Pentax digital SLR series. An example of a Pentax digital camera in the SLR series is the K110D. This model works on either two CR-V3 lithium batteries, or four AA alkaline batteries. K110D camera has a 2.5 inch monitor and 6.1 megapixels. This camera is especially good for action photography, as it captures 2.8 frames per second.

Pentax digital camera problems are not something you hear about, but that may be because Pentax gives you very clear digital camera basics for operating their cameras. They explain everything in detail and seem to leave nothing unsaid about operating the Pentax cameras. The biggest problem with the Pentax digital cameras is the warranty coverage and the time it takes to send your camera in for repairs. It can take up to eight weeks before you receive your camera back from the manufacturer. When you buy any camera, especially a Pentax digital camera, you should check the lens to make sure no damage has been done during shipping or assembly.

As for some other Pentax digital camera problems, they are not so much about the camera as much as it is what you can and cannot do with the camera. If you buy the W30 digital camera, which is supposed to be waterproof, you might find out that not every camera stands up to this particular statement. You should always look for a underwater camera that is highly rated by users before selecting any underwater camera. The customer service is not very helpful if something happens to this and many other cameras.

Other than the usual Panasonic digital camera problems associated with user error, Panasonic cameras do hold up well when taking clear pictures. Before buying any digital cameras, you should read the reviews and check for any recall alerts from the manufacturer to ensure you are getting a good camera that will give you only the best quality pictures. You will find that some users rate the cameras poorly. You just have to use good judgment and determine if it could be a user error that causes the problem before you decide to buy any digital camera. Digital cameras are easy to use if you read the manuals.

Olympus was started way back in the year 1919 under the name of Takachiho Seisakusho. In fact, the first optical product made by the company was not a camera, but a microscope! The name ‘Olympus’ was introduced in 1921 as a trade name for the company’s optical products.

There is an interesting story attached to the name of Olympus. It has a deep, deep meaning attached to it as well. According to Greek mythology, Olympus is the mountain where the Gods live. And, Takachiho is the mountain where the Gods live according to the Japanese texts. In fact, all the names associated with Olympus cameras have a hidden meaning to themselves. For example, the first product made by Olympus for photographic purposes was the Zuiko 75mm/F4.5 lens in 1936. This is an abbreviation coined from the name of Olympus optical plant (Mizuho Kogaku-kenkyujo) and also has a hidden Chinese meaning.

In the ’30s, Olympus introduced many different types of cameras. Due to the world wars, production suffered from time to time till the ’40s. The Twins Reflex camera was introduced in 1950s and became instantly popular. In fact, hundreds of models based on this technology were developed by several manufacturers. But it was the Olympus Rolleiflex which set the standard for these cameras in the industry.

However, it was the Olympus PEN which was launched in 1959-60, which established Olympus as the manufacturer of small cameras in the market. The PEN was light, small, innovatively designed and could take 72 shots in one roll! It became increasingly popular and helped Olympus to gain hold of the market. After this, there was no looking back for Olympus and it went from strength to strength.

The great thing about this digital SLR camera is that it is still lightweight and durable at the same time– the camera body is made of a metallic case that is very sturdy and durable. The camera grip is comfortable and there is plenty of room to hold the camera without fumbling. The buttons and controls are placed in ideal spots on the camera body to allow even the most novice photographer to quickly become comfortable with using it.

The Olympus Evolt E510 features image stabilization which is perfect for photographers of all skill sets. When the image stabilization feature is turned on, the camera will compensate for the slight tremor in the artists hand. Additionally, this digital SLR camera also offers an auto-focus feature to ensure that the images come out clear and focused. Or on the other hand, you can turn off the auto-focus feature and manually control the camera to create the photograph you are dreaming of.

Let’s take a look at auto focus first. Having 11 auto focus points is a good thing, but not necessarily perfect. While it’s true, that most camera auto focus schemes will fail under both low light conditions, and images with very little contrast, not all fail as badly. The Nikon D80 seems to struggle with it’s focusing approach more significantly than other cameras. If your a manual focuser by habit, then no big deal. Otherwise, one strike against the D80.

Suggesting that a $800 digital SLR camera produces soft images, is a somewhat relative statement, and should be taken in context. If your spending that kind of money on a digital camera, I would have fairly high expectations in terms of image quality. Sure, thanks to imaging software advances I can sharpen an image on my computer. But, not without introducing some distortion, and not to mention extra time effort on my part.

File this next nit pick under blatant cash grab. Nikon charges an additional $99 to buy the Capture NX software. A nice package to have, especially for fans of the wide angle lens. While there is other software out there that provides the same functionality, Nikon could have spoiled their new customers a little by bundling this one with the D80 SLR.

New Features Unique to the Nikon Coolpix S550

1. In smile mode a gauge is displayed that alerts you when your subject smiles. Great idea to allow you to capture the perfect image!

2. A blink warning detects when your subject has blinked and allows you to instantly repeat the shot.

Unique Nikon Image Innovations

1. Improved Face-priority AF

2. In-Camera Red-Eye Fix

3. D-Lighting. With the D-lighting function you can adjust the lighting for underexposure due to poor back lighting or correct the contrast for overexposure.

Other Features

Vibration reduction compensates for any shaking hands and is particularly useful under low lighting conditions. Nikon Coolpix S550 has a light sensitivity range of up to ISO 2000 so is ideal for use in dimmer light conditions or for shooting moving targets. There are both manual and automatic settings giving you full control. The monitor is a large 2.5-inch and the displays have been greatly improved with lots of feedback help and clearly identifiable icons. The camera comes in a range of colours -Silver, Black, Blue, or Purple. The battery life is adequate with around 200 shots.

* Smoother zooming for close-ups with the active zoom function
* Easy setting of multiple locations with the time zone function
* Time-lapse movie mode with sound
* SD memory card with 50 MB of memory
* SDHC card compatibility
* USB connectivity
* Macro shooting from 10 cm
* PictBridge support

Get in the habit of never opening the camera back unless you are absolutely sure there is no loaded film inside. If you open the back while film is outside of the metal cassette, the film will be ruined. To check, flip up the crank handle on the rewind knob. Carefully turn the crank in a clockwise direction. If the handle spins freely, there is no film loaded in the camera, or the film has been safely rewound inside it’s protective cartridge.

If the handle will not turn, there is loaded film in the camera. You will need to rewind the film so you can safely open the back. Turn the camera upside down and press down on the clutch button. You will find the clutch located inside a small triangular shaped recess in the bottom. Press it down until it clicks and remains depressed. Return the camera to the upright position, then crank the film clockwise until the handle spins freely.

Now you can open the back. Grasp the rewind knob and pull upward in a slow, steady motion. As you pull the knob upward, you will hear a metallic click and the back will spring open. Swing the back fully open. If there is an exposed cassette in the camera, pull up on the same rewind knob and lift the cassette out.

Take a fresh roll and pull the leader out from the cassette about five inches. Place the cassette into the left side of the camera with the plastic nipple facing down. Lift up on the rewind knob to allow the cassette to fit into place, then press down on the knob to secure the film cassette.

Now take the film leader and drag it across the film platen so it fits over the dual sprockets. Insert the narrow part of the leader into the slots on the take up spool.

Once the leader is snagged onto the spool, crank the wind lever one time, watching to see that the sprocket holes engage the sprockets properly. If everything looks OK, close the back, pressing on the left edge until you hear it click into place.

Now wind the shutter lever two more times. To advance the film, you will have to press the shutter release each time the lever reaches the end of it’s movement. At this point, glance at the film counter. It should be pointing at 1. Do not be greedy. If you try to stretch your film by not advancing the film advance the full two frames, you will probably find the first image is fogged. So make sure to wind the full two frames.

Although the SRT has a robust film transport, if you do not engage the film onto the take up spool properly, it is possible for the film to slip free. If this happens, the film will not advance. In essence, you will wind up taking all your exposures on one single frame.

Minolta obviously realized this could be a problem, as they included a “Safe Load” indicator on later models of the SRT series. Do not be concerned if you own one of the majority of the SRTs that do not have this feature. It is easy to check if the film is loaded properly.

Use the same rewind trick described to check for loaded film. After you have closed the back and cranked the wind lever twice, flip up the film crank and carefully try to wind the film counter clockwise. (Do not press the clutch button) If you can move the crank more than half a turn, the film has probably slipped free. Wind it backwards a few more turns, open the back and reload the film properly.

What do the numbers mean?

The first number is the magnification number. Magnification is simply the number of times an image is enlarged when you are looking through the binoculars. You might also think of it as the number of times closer the image appears to you. When using the 10×42 Leica Geovid BRF binoculars, your subject will appear ten times closer to you when viewing through the binoculars. Note: a zoom range binocular can zoom in and out between the first two numbers. They are multi-magnification binoculars. It should also be noted that the 10 X magnification is the highest magnification you can utilize without using a tripod.

What does the second number mean?

The second number is the diameter of each front lens. They are measured in millimeters. You should remember that this number relates to performance. The larger the second number the more light is used and the brighter the image. The larger front lens will make your binoculars heavier though.

The Leica Geovid BRF 10×42 also offers a laser range finder. This makes them terrific on the range. You no longer need a range finder and binoculars. You can range your weapon directly from your binoculars. The Leica Geovid BRF binoculars save money because you no longer need a separate range finder.

Other Leica digital camera reviews include the D-LUX 3, Digilux 3, M8 and the V-LUX1. The Digilux 3 and the M8 have very high price tags. The Digilux 3 is SLR digital camera with 7.5 megapixels and a two and a half inch viewing screen. The nice thing about this camera is it can hold a memory card larger than two gigabytes. This camera has the ability to shoot three frames per second.

The M8 camera is a 10.3 megapixels camera that has a price of fifty-four hundred dollars. This camera is not for the beginning photographer. The performance of this camera is outstanding. This camera does not have autofocus, so the user will need to know the fundamentals of photography and camera use.

Some other Fujifilm digital camera problems were reported with earlier models, but have since been corrected by Fuji. The noise level is not flattering with the earlier Fuji cameras but has since been corrected. With the addition of a higher resolution viewing screen, Fuji has managed to improve the battery life of the camera. Another problem was the menu screen, which has since been corrected and is easier to understand and use. You can see that Fuji has taken all steps to correct any problems that were noted with prior cameras and have made the newer cameras more user friendly. They have also improved picture quality.

The Fujifilm Digital camera problems are very rare, but most of the time it is user error. If the improvement of the flash picture quality has been improved greatly. Except for the Z5fd, Fuji has continued to create cameras that are easy to use, lightweight and compact. Many people agree that the F series Fuji cameras have improved. However, there are still some problems with picture clarity, if the user does not know how to make adjustments. This again is partly the manufacturer’s problem and user error.

Packed within a tough grey shell, the A303 is lightweight and can fit easily into your pant pockets. The camera’s controls are simple to figure out and include a Menu/OK button, Back button, viewfinder, viewfinder lamp, a display buttion and LCD monitor to preview pictures without looking through the viewfinder or to review pictures already taken. A round dial in the back of the camera features a self timer mode where you can set the camera and ten seconds later have the picture go off. Great for when you want to get the entire family’s picture and no one is around to take it. There are also close up modes, still image, playback and movie modes. The movie mode results in a fairly choppy and short film, but it is a neat feature to have nevertheless.

The standard camera comes equipped with a 16mb picture card. Most people will find that inadequate, so I paid a little bit extra and bought the 64mb upgrade. I also purchased rechargeable AA batteries — it takes two — and a recharger. You will sap your batteries quickly if you take 30-40 or more pictures at a time, so the recharger makes sense. I purchased the accompanying Fujifilm carrying case to house my other supplies.

For some time, a true wide-angle lens has not been available through Canon for those photographers using a APS-C format sensor camera. The nearest lens available would be a 14mm prime, but this would most probably fall outside of the average users price range. The next most likely option would be either of the Canon 16-35mm or 17-55mm zoom lenses. Even then, the equivalent field of view would only be around 26mm. Enter the 10-22.

Wide angle lenses are invaluable in several photographic niches. They truly show their worth in landscape photography in particular. No other class of lens has the ability to capture the great vistas of mother nature better. You can see from sunrise to sunset. No other set of lenses enables the photography to capture just so much “stuff”. They are also used in both architectural photography, where they shine in capturing interior and exterior elements. Real-estate agents fall in love with the ability to show entire house interiors in just one shot. Wide-angle lenses can also be very useful in flushing out the creative side of most ever photographer. The natural distortion involved with the wide field-of-view creates some very unusual changes in perspective in everyday objects.

You first notice the Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens is very well made. It does not have the “cheap” feel that is sometimes found in some of other Canon lenses. The focus and distance controls operate smoothly. The lens achieves focuses rather quickly and also quietly due to the use of a ring-type USM focusing motor. You also notice that the lens barrel neither extends or rotates during focusing or when adjusting the focal length. This is important as you can use a circular polarizer with this lens, although you may see some slight vignetting if you choose not use a slim polarizer. In most cases, this should not be a problem.

I was rather surprised with the overall image quality of the EF-S 10-22. For the most part, images are sharp and clear throughout most of the focal-length range. There is a slight amount of fuzziness apparent at around 11mm. It does become more noticeable, although not offensive, at 10mm. Center sharpness remains constant when shooting wide open or stopped-down, though there is the slightest amount of blur in the corners throughout all of the lens focal range.

I also expected distortion to be an problem with this lens, as with most other wide-angle lenses, but it never really was that noticeable. There is a slight amount of barrel distortion at wide end, mostly at 10mm. There is even less pincushion distortion at 22mm. From 12mm-20mm, there is very little distortion of any kind. This is very unusual for a wide-angle lens. Just as surprising, chromatic aberration was not a problem. There was an lack of any noticeable CA at 22mm. At 10mm the was the smallest amount,what was present could very easily be cleaned up with Photoshop.

Flare can be an issue with wide-angle lenses due to the physical structure of the lens. With a field-of-view that exceeds 107 degree at 10mm, you are likely to have some degree of flare from the sun or other lighting sources. The EF-S 10-22 does a good job in controlling lens flare, but for the absolute best results, you use the EW-83E hood, which unfortunately, Canon does not include except for their “L” quality glass.